Trade Talk

The events following the publication of the much-publicised World Cancer Research Fund (WCRF) report linking lifestyle and cancer could not have generated better publicity for bacon if you'd paid for it.

Everyone interpreted the report to mean that bacon, along with other processed meats, should be avoided altogether to prevent developing bowel cancer. This was a shock-horror story for bacon producers, for the media and for the millions of bacon-loving consumers who make up a UK market worth nearly £2bn.

The press reacted with front-page headlines such as 'Save our Bacon', calling the report's authors 'food fascists'. The Food Standards Agency (FSA) quickly responded with a carefully-worded statement from its chief scientist reminding us of its advice to eat a balanced diet, enjoying foods in sensible proportions.

This was followed by an article in The Independent by Professor Martin Wiseman, who led the WCRF study, rebutting accusations that he was waging war on the humble bacon butty.

Wiseman seemed surprised that the report had been interpreted in this way, saying that it was untrue that eating bacon every day caused bowel cancer. It simply marginally increased the risk compared with someone who ate none at all, he said. This was illustrated by a centre-page mouth-watering image of a bacon butty and was probably as close as you could get to a green light.

Most foods present risks in certain circumstances and it's up to shoppers to decide which risks they're prepared to take.

Last time the press and consumers universally supported a food under fire was related to unpasteurised cheese. This was deemed, incorrectly as recent official research has confirmed, more likely than pasteurised cheese to be contaminated with pathogenic organisms. The food fascists believed it should be banned.

This all goes to prove the adage that there's no such thing as bad publicity. However, no advertising agency would dare to create a campaign along these lines.

So the message is: carry on eating bacon butties and unpasteurised cheese in moderation and everyone will be happy, especially consumers.

Clare Cheney​​ is director general at the Provision Trade Federation​