Against the grain

A gluten-free diet is essential for consumers who have been diagnosed with coeliac disease, or dermatitis herpetiformis (gluten-induced skin sensitivity), and increasing awareness of this has spawned a prolific European trade in gluten-free bakery goods.Demand for gluten-free products is greatest in the UK. The market grew by 30% between 2002 and 2006, to a value of Euro 60M, compared with 21.9% in France and 12.6% in Italy, according to Euromonitor.

Coeliacs need to avoid foods made from or containing wheat, including rye, barley, oats and even spelt. Bakers commonly use a range of alternative gluten-free flours, such as rice, maize/corn, buckwheat, peas and beans, however the absence of gluten affects the organoleptic properties of the final product - particularly where bread is concerned - leading to inferior taste and texture in most cases.

Bakers try to counteract physiological and nutritional deficiencies in gluten-free flours using a combination of hydrocolloids and other natural ingredients to mimic the effects of gluten and to increase nutritional properties.

Winners and losers​

Rice is a popular gluten-free flour because of its high starch content, while it also contains a broad spectrum of amino acids. Corn flour is frequently used but has poor rising capacity and is nutritionally weak, as is tapioca, while buckwheat tastes slightly sour.

Hydrocolloids, such as guar and xanthan gum, stabilise and improve the textural properties and density of products; they also have a positive impact on dough rheology and shelf stability. Transglutaminase enzyme (Tgase) - an enzyme that cross-links protein - is often used alongside hydrocolloids to enhance these organoleptic effects. This enzyme may also be effective in isolation, in flours such as buckwheat and brown rice, to improve baking and textural characteristics, or combined with protein isolates to fortify gluten-free foods with protein.

"Producers are putting a lot more effort into new product development because there are a lot more ingredients available for use in gluten-free products that have been tested and certified," confirms Eva-Maria Blixt, product development manager at UK-based baker Bells of Lazonby.

Bells produces a range of gluten-free sponges, cakes, cereal bars and biscuits and is very strict about the levels of additives used. "We add xanthan gum to cakes for example, but we aim to use as few additives as possible," says Blixt. "To counteract this we make products with minimal water activity, by adding dried fruit, honey or concentrated fruit juices, to extend shelf-life while maintaining a moist texture."

Onwards and upwards​

Paula Deacon, md at specialist gluten-free firm G Free, agrees that the quality of gluten-free products has improved a lot over the years. Previously, she says, products were laden with preservatives, including salt, and sugar, and vacuum-packed for freshness.

"Gluten-free foods have changed quite a lot; years ago it was very much about long-life products and a lot of gluten-free foods were prescribed by doctors. Products were poor quality, but now there is a lot more competition and there are more fresh short-life products on the market."

G Free is also using a selection of nuts, seeds and ancient grains to increase the nutritional profile of the products. Chestnuts, linseed, and millet are added to flour to boost vitamin, mineral and protein content, and multigrain loaves contain a mixture of buckwheat, brown rice flour, quinoa, and millet.

"It is necessary to find ways to add nutrients because recently diagnosed coeliacs would be quite rundown and lacking in many nutrients. Quinoa is high in protein and we also use soya milk that is fortified with nutrients," explains Deacon.

Quinoa is an ancient grain and is enjoying a popular resurgence. It is not only a great source of protein but is high in calcium, iron, phosphorus and amino acids, and it has a nutty, earthy flavour.

Ethiopian staple teff has also caught the attention of gluten-free producers, mainly because it is a rich source of fibre and calcium. "It takes 150 grains of teff to weigh as much as one grain of wheat, which accounts for its high nutritional value," explains Sophie Sirak-Kebede, co-owner of teff supplier Tobia-Teff. "In any grain the nutrients are concentrated in the germ and bran. With teff the germ and bran make up the bulk of the grain and because it is too small to hull, its abundant nutrients stay intact."

Bells has been testing teff in cakes and sponges and is planning to apply it commercially in the future. "Teff gives a reasonable texture to products because of its high protein content, which is similar to wheat," says Blixt. "It is expensive and quite hard to come by, but we do intend to use it as an alternative to rice, corn and ground almond flours."

Partially replacing gluten-free flour with resistant starch (from corn or tapioca, for example) can significantly increase dietary fibre content in gluten-free products. In addition, tapioca-resistant starch has a positive effect on gelatinisation and decreases viscosity.

Not fibre free​

Hi-Maize is a range of resistant starches developed by National Starch Food Innovation. The gluten-free bases are made from maize, tapioca and potato and are targeted at the bakery, sauces and ready meals markets. European technical development manager, Alison Knight says: "Fibre is vital to maintaining overall health and well-being. Innovative ingredients, such as Hi-maize resistant starch, offer manufacturers a route to capitalise on the increased demand for gluten-free yet high-fibre foods.

"Hi-maize offers multiple health benefits and brings much-needed dietary fibre home to consumers. It also enables processed foods, such as bread, cereals and nutrition bars, to act physiologically more like unprocessed foods."

Separately, mineral-rich calcified seaweed has been developed by Marigot for use in gluten-free bread. Aquamin was originally designed for the dietary supplements market but has been adapted for use in gluten-free bread. All products contain 74 trace minerals and magnesium but equally they can improve the texture and visual acceptability of gluten-free loaves, giving them a crumbly texture profile, without affecting other quality parameters.

"Aquamin is a very different mineral compared to others used to enrich food," explains Marigot commercial manager, David O'Leary. "Most calcium formulations used in food produce chalky, dry, gritty end products that contain sediments; therefore it is quite difficult to introduce calcium to food. But because Aquamin is plant derived it has a porous structure so it doesn't have these disadvantages."

Manufacturers will aim to target dieters in the future as well as increasing the appeal of gluten-free products by introducing other 'free from' benefits. Either way, developments will continue to push the boundaries of gluten-free foods as researchers experiment with an ever-broadening range of certified ingredients.

Gluten-free labelling in the EU​

It's been a long wait, but there has finally been some movement in the regulatory sphere, with a European Commission proposal to define the criteria for using the terms 'gluten free' and 'very low gluten free' food under the PARNUTS (food for particular nutritional uses) legislation.

In addition, it will allow foods for normal consumption that are naturally free of gluten to be labelled as 'gluten free' providing the food meets certain criteria for the level of gluten. The regulation is designed to harmonise guidelines across the EU and reduce consumer confusion with clear and consistent labelling.

There are currently no EU regulations governing the labelling of 'gluten free' and 'very low gluten' foods although there is an international Codex Standard that is widely recognised. Until July this year Codex stated that food containing ingredients with a gluten level not exceeding 200ppm could be labelled 'gluten free'.

However, the new Codex standard sets a limit of 20ppm in order to be labelled 'gluten free'. Claims for food containing between 20ppm and 100ppm, are to be determined at national level - although they should not be defined as 'gluten free'.

The proposed EC Regulation is in line with the new Codex standard, which should facilitate international trade. "It should mean that foods labelled as suitable for people intolerant to gluten (coeliacs) will use harmonised criteria and consistent labelling terms, therefore helping to reduce consumer confusion and allowing consumers to differentiate between the various types of products aimed at coeliacs," explains Leatherhead Food International Regulatory Services UK team leader, Jenny Pfleger.

"They will be especially beneficial for distributors operating across the EU who may currently face trade barriers resulting from differences between national provisions."

According to the UK Food Standards Agency consultation on the EC proposal, some producers may have to slightly change their recipes and/or relabel in order to comply; however, "the agency does not envisage any major repercussions on the industry other than beneficial ones", says Pfleger. The proposed legislation will prohibit normal foods (non-PARNUTS products), which contain levels of gluten above 20mg/kg from making a voluntary claim about their levels of gluten.

Allergen labelling​

European allergen labelling rules require that the cereal name must be indicated in the ingredients list in cases where added ingredients and components of added ingredients are derived from 'cereals containing gluten, i.e. wheat, rye, barley, oats, spelt, kamut or their hybridised strains (with a few exceptions).

In theory, it is therefore possible that a food could contain an ingredient derived from wheat but have gluten levels of 20 mg/kg or less, qualifying for the 'gluten free' claim. If the wheat ingredient is not on the list of exempt derivatives, 'wheat' would need to be declared in the ingredients list in association with the ingredient name.

This could clearly generate some confusion in the supermarket aisles as coeliacs scrutinise labels. However, Pfleger points out that: "The allergen labelling rules are intended to inform consumers who suffer from cereal allergies (IgE-mediated immunological reactions) as well as those who are intolerant to gluten. Thresholds for severe allergic reactions to cereal proteins are not as well established."

The EU proposal is unlikely to be ratified for another year at least, but when it is it will reinforce the criteria set by Codex and serve to completely harmonise the regulations across the EU.