Absinthe is making a comeback, with the global market poised to grow to $40.2bn in 2028 at a CAGR of 3%, according to The Business Research Company.
What is absinthe and is it safe?
The botanical spirit, known for its aniseed flavour, is distilled with grand wormwood, green anise and fennel seed – also known as ‘the Holy Trinity’.
All distilled absinthes start clear; to create a traditional green style of absinthe, this distillate is then infused with a new mix of botanicals to get its natural colour from chlorophyll.
“Most people are familiar with Pernod - that was the first commercially produced absinthe in 1805,” Jane Peyton, founder of the School of Booze and author of the book The Philosophy of Cocktails, told Food Manufacture.
The beverage was banned for almost a century in many countries across the globe.
“Several European countries and the USA banned it in the early 20th century because they erroneously believed it caused hallucinations and contributed to an increase in crime and degenerate behaviour," explained Peyton.
“Wormwood contains a compound that in high levels can cause psychosis but now science knows it is not in the required levels in absinthe to have an effect. What was causing the problem with absinthe is that it was between 60-90% alcohol and chronic alcohol abuse can cause hallucinations.”
Bans on absinthe were relaxed in various decades in the 20th century. But the ‘green fairy’ – a nickname it was given due to its distinctive colour – was never made illegal in the UK, meaning that many classic cocktails were developed in Britain.
However, the drink is probably most closely tied to French culture, with famous artist Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec even said to have a cocktail named after him – known as ‘Earthquake’ or ‘Tremblement de Terre’.
Toulouse-Leutrec’s alcoholism also allegedly led to him having a hollow cane made specially where he could keep glass vials of drink such as absinthe.
Why is absinthe growing in popularity?
Today’s interest in the green spirit is suggested to be a result of a thriving tourism industry, with travellers keen to have a genuine absinthe drinking experience
The theatre of absinthe is another appeal as consumers continue to look for ‘Instagrammable’ experiences.
“There is a ritual associated with drinking absinthe including the ornate water fountain and the special absinthe spoon on which a sugar cube sits for water to be dripped through. The green spirit then changes colour and becomes opaque yellow-green. Increasingly people want experiences when they socialise and absinthe suits that. Also the fact it was banned and had a naughty reputation makes it appealing to a contemporary audience,” noted Peyton.
Rising R&D investments focused on developing absinthe more improved characteristics and new applications is also likely to propel further growth.
In 2021, the UK saw Devil’s Botany open - London’s first absinthe distillery. Whilst others ventured into gin, rum and whisky, the founders Allison Crawbuck and Rhys Everett were pulled in by the ‘mystery’ of the drink.
The duo’s clear absinthe is distilled using the same methods that define a London Dry Gin and does not cloud when diluted with water – a distinctive trait of the drink. Known as the ‘louche’ effect, absinthe usually clouds when water is added as a result of components like fennel and star anise not being soluble.
In 2022, Never Distilling Co., announced its new blend of contemporary and traditional botanicals with the launch of Australian Absinthe. This includes wormwood, sweet fennel and lemon balm.
Major companies operating in this market are also innovating new products like Absinthia Barrel Aged Absinthe, including US-based Absinthia Bottled Spirits LLC., which launched a version in 2022. The barrel ageing process adds honey, caramel and vanilla notes.
Europe was the largest region in the absinthe market in 2023 and North America is expected to be the fastest-growing region.
